Port of Call LAST UPDATE July 12, 2005
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September 29, 2004 Puerto Quetzal, Guatemala – Fighting from the Stage
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Peace Boat docked at Puerto Quetzal, Guatemala
Guatemala, a Central American country south of Mexico, has long been known for its ancient Mayan ruins, dramatic volcanoes, and wealth of delicious tropical fruits bound for the rest of the world. Underneath this beautiful surface, however, a civil war raged for 36 years between the government and guerrilla groups over securing rights for the indigenous people (Mayan people), who make up more than half of the population.

In 1996, a peace agreement was formed and many hoped the legacy of ethnic discrimination brought by the Spanish colonization of Guatemala had finally been broken. Although the violent conflict ended, several groups have consequently sprung up to push the stalling government to fully act on those promises made in the peace agreement. Among those working to educate and organize people are many women seeking to enforce new laws that protect women‘s rights.
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San Martin Jilotepeque's Spanish-influenced architecture
Docking in the sleepy port of Puerto Quetzal, a group of more than 40 Peace Boat participants set out to explore how women are helping to secure their own rights, and the rights of indigenous women – especially those isolated in small, rural communities. Their bus climbed up into the mountainous interior between four active volcanoes nestled in a humid jungle of scattered sugar cane fields and fruit farms. The village they were heading for was San Martin Jilotepeque, perched at 1785 meters above sea level, and at the heart of the ancient Mayan civilization. This village and many others in this area were founded before the time of Columbus. In fact, "San Martin" comes from the name of a Spanish saint and “Jilotepeque” is the village's original Mayan name. Like the majority of Guatemalans, the majority of the 58,000 villagers in San Martin Jilotepeque are farmers.
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Former guerrilla and women’s rights activist Lin Valenzuela wearing clothes with a traditional Mayan calendar design
Accompanying the Peace Boat participants were two women who helped the group learn more about the country's past, present and future. Delia Castillo works with many of Guatemala's 23 ethnic groups through her organization, Asociacion Mujeres Vamos Adelante (AMVA), which translates literally to "Women Let's Go!" Association. AMVA is active in 14 provinces across the country, restoring respect and recognition of the important role of women and ethnic minorities. Lin Valenzuela, a former guerrilla member, now works as a women's rights activist, focusing on poor farmers.

The Peace Boat group was also welcomed by families from the village and some of the community's leaders. Jorge Navas Martinez, a representative from the municipal government, explained that more than 90 percent of people in San Martin Jilotepeque are indigenous Mayan descendants, which has contributed to the need for women's rights groups. "I want to underline the [important] role women play in the building of society. This is why we are grateful for the work AMVA has been doing in our town," Martinez said.
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"The Festival of Happiness" theater
Many of the women who live in San Martin Jilotepeque were guerrillas during the civil war. They had little education in schools, so there are few ways or chances for them to express what they are going through. "The women weren't allowed by the mayor or their husbands to participate in politics, so they created a theater. Although these women can't read or write, they are still trying to contribute to the political process," Castillo said. The theater, called Feria de la Alegria or "The Festival of Happiness" acts out everyday situations and feelings the women experience in their daily lives. The mixed audience watched in rapt attention as the theater of about ten women performed several skits. In one skit, the women made fun of men who get drunk enough to be arrested, but can still carry an official ID card, which many women aren't allowed to have.
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Theater member Maria Estela with one of her ten children
The actors, who got together from five different villages, said that because of the theater's work and AMVA's encouragement, their lives and confidence have improved. "We used to be scared of our husbands and be embarrassed in front of them. Now we can understand them more and can stand up to them. We're all human and that means we're all the same," said Maria Estela, a member of the theater group. Manuel de Jesus Ambrosio Cojon, whose wife is a member and played the role of a policeman, was excited by people coming from the other side of the world to see them. "Now the women are stronger and can show their feelings and tell their husbands not to get drunk. So it is becoming different," Cojon said. "Even though it’s a women’s play, I feel that men can come and take part."
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Local priestess Juana Ramos performing a traditional Mayan invocation
Besides ethnic rivalry and poverty, one of the main reasons for discrimination against women is the lingering effect of machismo – the traditional idea of male superiority in Latin America. Until recently, the society acceptance of machismo made violence any everyday experience for many women. Besides standing up to husbands, many women have also benefited in other ways – learning how to keep time, organize meetings, work in a team, make projects, raise awareness and advocate about social issues in their own town and neighboring communities. Juana Ramos, who performed a Mayan prayer to welcome the Peace Boat group, said the attention of people from outside their village helps encourage them. "We've done this play many times, but this is the first time we've experienced being watched as women – as human beings," Ramos said.
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AMVA member Delia Castillo
In an open session after the theater performance, a Peace Boat participant asked about how dating and marriage works in Guatemalan culture. Ramos replied that it depends on each village, but traditionally the father finds a husband for his daughter. Her own mother was pressured as a 15 year old to marry someone she didn't want to marry. "Now things are changing a lot and women can choose which person they want to marry," she said. Increasingly, village markets act as gathering spots for single young people looking for a girlfriend or boyfriend.
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Young girls from San Martin Jilotepeque
Ramos reflected that encouragement from their own village groups, AMVA and foreign organizations have helped strengthen Guatemalan women, who hope that the changes they are fighting for will happen in their lifetime. "Thanks to this place women are more willing to try new things and show their face," she said. Estela said the difficulties of staying in the theater balances out when she thinks of the future she is helping to build. "It's been difficult for us to do this, because our husbands disagree. But I have ten kids and I want them to have a better future by making a role for independent women," she said.
Resources
Fundacion Guillermo Toriello (Spanish) – www.c.net.gt/fgtoriello
Peace Women Guatemala – www.peacewomen.org/resources/Guatemala/guatemalaindex.html
Human Rights Watch on Women Workers in Guatemala – www.hrw.org/doc?t=women_labor&c=guatem
Amnesty International – Guatemala – www.web.amnesty.org/report2004/gtm-summary-eng