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| Special Report - Peace Boat visits Antarctica
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| Surrounded by breathtaking coastal scenery at
Antarctica |
Nearly one hundred people disembarked Peace Boat's
M/V Olvia in Ushuaia, Argentina, to join a ten-day expedition to the
Antarctic Peninsula. For the same reasons why almost 10,000 tourists
visit the White Continent during each austral summer, the Peace Boat
trip was for educational and adventure tourism purposes. Before embarking
on their trip, participants were taken through a rigorous briefing
on the 'Dos and Don'ts' of travelling to the majestic frozen continent.
For example, avoid walking on moss and lichens, and ensure to keep
a specific distance from wildlife. Also onboard the ship were ten
international staff, including a British ornithologist, an American
glaciologist, a Dutch naturalist, a New Zealand environmental and
Antarctica Treaty specialist, a wildlife artist, and an outdoors survival
expert. Peace Boat's own guest was Koichi Fujiwara, a prominent natural
life photographer who has published the only comprehensive book of
photography on penguins. |
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| Seals coming ashore during the summer months |
The group was remarkably fortunate in encountering
calm seas as they made a two-day crossing of the Drake Passage from
southern Argentina, through the infamous 'Roaring Forties' to the
first landfall at the South Shetland Islands. Altogether participants
were able to make eight landings, by going ashore in Zodiac inflatable
dinghies. In places like Aicho Island, Paulet Island, Wiencke Island
and Brown Bluff, participants were able to walk freely for several
hours at a time and explore the native fauna, which often allowed
visitors to watch them from close range. Participants reportedly came
face to face with several rookeries of penguins, including Adelie,
Macaroni, Gentoo, Chinstrap and King penguins, as well as four sub-species
of seals including Fur, Wendell's, Leopard, and even the prodigious
four tonne Elephant seal. Although the ice free coastal areas that
support most of Antarctica's wildlife and plants make up less than
two per cent of the continent, the group's seasonal timing meant that
much of the wildlife had come ashore, and that daylight hours were
plentiful. |
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| `Socialised` penguins being studied by British
scientists at Port Lockroy |
The British Antarctic Survey (BAS) has set up a
scientific base at Port Lockroy, on Goudier Island. For four months
a year, two British penguin scientists work on the boat-sized island,
studying the impact of tourists on penguins, and also operating the
world's most southerly post office and souvenir shop. Around four
thousand tourists per year have been visiting the base since 1996.
Peace Boat participants were encouraged to walk around some of the
nesting Gentoo penguins under supervision so that the scientists could
record the effects of visitor disturbance on the six colonies near
the landing site and base, but asked participants not to go near the
four control colonies. Interestingly, results so far have shown that
factors other than visitor disturbance are likely responsible for
changes in breeding performance and population trends. |
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| The auctioned Antarctic map with wildlife painted
by the onboard artist |
While on the ship, participants listened to a series
of informative and fascinating lectures. Koichi Fujiwara, who recently
spent two months living on an Argentine Antarctic research base, gave
a lecture on the potential environmental impact of the recent collapse
of the Ross Ice Shelf, as well as provided advice to participants
on how to take wildlife photographs. Other lectures by the onboard
staff addressed the breaking up of Gondwana and formation of Antarctica;
regional seabirds including the albatross, with its impressive 3.5
metre wingspan; and extreme weather survival techniques including
what to do if you were to get stuck in a crevasse! Hanna, the onboard
artist, painted images of Antarctic wildlife on a map, which was subsequently
auctioned to a participant for $130. The proceeds went to an albatross
conservation organization, as participants learnt that the albatross
is currently under threat by the hazards of long-line fishing.
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| Playful humpback whale splashing around next
to the ship |
Perhaps the ultimate highlight for most people
was watching a Humpback whale mother and her calf playing next to
the ship for over two hours. The delight and privilege of virtually
interacting with these vast mammals impressed upon everyone how magnificent
and unique these creatures are. Participants were also lucky enough
to spot Killer, Minke and Southern Right whales. The Peace Boat group
later visited Deception Island, which was once a large whaling station,
as well as a UK spy base during the Second World War and later a British
research base. Staff member Scobie Pye, who has lived in Antarctica
for a total of seven years, talked about the sixty year history of
whaling since 1904, during which time over one million Antarctic whales
were slaughtered. In 1982 however, the International Whaling Commission
(IWC) introduced a worldwide ban on commercial whaling and in 1994
declared Antarctica a Whale Sanctuary. For Japanese people today,
whaling and the consumption of whale meat is still an issue that is
strongly defended by many, largely for historical and cultural reasons.
It is fair to say that there is a relatively low level of consciousness
and conviction within Japanese society when it comes to the conservation
of whales for environmental and ethical reasons. A Japanese participant
onboard suggested that it was far from intuitive for many Japanese
to make a connection between purchasing 'kujira' or whale meat in
their local supermarket and any environmental repercussions or ethical
considerations. Notably, one man felt so moved by his Antarctic whale-watching
experience and newly absorbed education about whales that he declared
not to purchase or eat whale meat from that point on. |
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| Beth Nicholls and Maiko Kawakami say their trip
to Antarctica was a powerful experience |
According to Peace Boat communication coordinator,
Beth Nicholls, visiting the world's last great and near-pristine wilderness
was something of a cathartic experience. Not only does she feel resolute
about the importance of ensuring that Antarctica and its flora and
fauna are well protected and conserved, but she feels inspired to
spend part of her life working in the White Continent. The more one
learns about the wonders and wealth of Antarctica, the more it is
apparent that humankind should tread extremely lightly on this region
of the world. For Peace Boat, this means that we will continue to
ensure we participate in real eco-tourism tours that have the most
minimal impact on the natural surroundings. Upon returning to the
Peace Boat mother ship, or M/V Olvia, the participants compiled their
assortment of photos and produced a CD ROM that they are selling to
fundraise money for BAS' research work on the Antarctic Peninsula.
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| Peace Boat's
40th Voyage index |
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PEACE BOAT is an NGO in Special Consultative Status with the Economic and Social Council of the United Nations. |
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