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| Port of Call - Istanbul, Turkey |
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| Arabic script on tiles in the Blue Mosque |
At 4am on October 1st Peace Boat docked in Istanbul for the first time in the history of its global voyages. Most passengers were, of course, asleep in their cabins, but the day before had witnessed a view of Turkey comprising of two continents as the boat navigated the Cannakale Channel heading for the capital. The sight of green wooded hills of Asia on the right and Europe on the left drew many up onto the outside walkways despite the chilly autumn breeze, a far cry from the desert heat of Egypt. |
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| Golcuk villagers in front of their pre-fab dwellings |
Upon arrival, one tour left for the small town of Golcuk, two hours drive from Istanbul. This area was at the epicentre of the devastating earthquake that hit Turkey on August 17, 1999. Peace Boat sent a delegation to Turkey immediately after the earthquake providing aid in the form of blankets and daily necessities and helping with relief operations. This time Peace Boat visited a community of 300 households and participants discovered that while there are now few visible reminders of the disaster, the psychological aftershocks still affect many people. Since the government has made no provision to relocate those living in rented accommodation at the time of the quake, many are still living in temporary housing three years on. Each family has a story of loved ones lost and livelihoods shattered but the sense of community among the residents means that, even if they could afford to, many would be reluctant to move and lose the bonds that developed in the aftermath of the tragedy. |
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| A Peace Boat participant interacts with the local children |
Before departure the Peace Boat UPA Project Team had collected stationery items and soccer balls and these were distributed to families and local schools. One such institution suffered minimal damage and accepted students from neighbouring schools on a rotation basis, though children were able to attend only two hours of classes per day. Now the situation has improved somewhat and the tents used as classrooms in the months after the quake have been replaced with pre-fabricated temporary buildings. This programme provided a unique opportunity for participants to interact with proactive adults who are guiding their children through perhaps the most challenging experience of their lives. In the smiles and confidences exchanged with Peace Boat members, it was evident that the scars beneath the skin were starting to heal as well. |
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| Piles of olives in the Eyptian Bazaar |
Other tours headed for the outlandish Capadoccia landscape, while those remaining within Istanbul departed for the Old City. They visited such sights as the Byzantine Era Topkapi Palace, inhabited by the Ottoman Sultans for over 500 years, the Blue Mosque, one of Istanbul's largest mosques, so-called because of its stunning blue-tiled interior and Yerebatan Sarnici, a sunken cistern in use from ancient times. The last, echoing with classical music, had a vaulted roof and massive columns, creating a church-like atmosphere that was a welcome respite from the manic Egyptian and Grand Bazaars. In the labyrinthine streets of these markets, passengers spent long hours bargaining over those vital souvenirs, ranging from Turkish tea sets and hookahs to rugs and mounds of Turkish delight of all flavours. Some shops displayed spangly belly-dance costumes and hip-scarves dripping with coins, whilst others pumped out Arabian and Turkish music to entice in the unwary passer-by. The aroma of grilled meat from the donor kebab stands competed with the scent of apple tobacco, and cries of the bread sellers distracted tourists burdened with exotic gifts. For those in need of relaxation, one tour visited a dinner show featuring regional performances and belly dancers with hips ashake, while many other participants found their way to Cemberlitas Hamami, a traditional Turkish bath famed for its architecture. Here, drowsily lying on the warm stone gazing at the beams of light entering through the perforated roof, participants could be soaped and massaged, forgetting the noise and movement of the streets outside. |
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| Emin explains the geography of Turkey's former Ottoman Empire |
Finally the time in Istanbul came to an end and passengers waved goodbye to the domes of the capital and the disembarking guests. One of these was Emin Yilmaz, leaving the boat to spend a few days with his family in Istanbul before returning to Japan. A fourth year Tokyo University student studying genetic engineering, Emin was often to be seen debating various issues with all members of staff and passengers and also found time to give a series of talks in the lecture space onboard. Some of these focussed on the application and future of genetic engineering while other seminars concerned Islamic society and Turkish culture. In the days before arrival in his home country, Emin also gave Turkish language classes and informative and amusing lectures about the history and culture of Turkey, laced with anecdotes and tips on where to go and what to eat in the capital. Given the tired but satisfied faces of those throwing streamers as the boat departed, many were able to add their own Turkish favourites to the list. |
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39th Voyage index |
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PEACE BOAT is an NGO in Special Consultative Status with the Economic and Social Council of the United Nations. |
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