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Port of Call |
LAST UPDATE July 12, 2005
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| site design imagesparkle.com |
| January 12, 2005 |
Auckland, Aotearoa, New Zealand |
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| Traditional symbolism at the Marae |
The word Maori originally means “local people” and refers to the indigenous people of Aotearoa. This deeply spiritual group of people, who sailed the high seas in canoes by following the stars and ancient prayers or ‘karakia’, discovered this land and inhabited the islands, which make up the country we now know as New Zealand. Exact dates of their arrival are unknown, however they are said to have lived in accordance with the cycles of nature and the unwritten rules of worship and respect for ancestral land for hundreds of years. Even nowadays most Maori are able to say which of the famous canoes their ancestors paddled to New Zealand in, as whakapapa (geneology) is an integral part of Maori culture. A group of over 50 Peace Boat participants went on a journey to one of the sacred Marae, or gathering places, of the Maori, just north of Auckland to experience their rich cultural practices. |
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| The welcoming committee |
At Port Waikato Peace Boat entered the grounds of the Tauranganui Marae under the invitation of Waatara Black, an influential Maori elder woman. In the Maori tradition all visitors to a Marae site have to receive an official welcome ceremony to be accepted as friends. As our delegation slowly walked in, shrouded in absolute silence we were met by three men with tatooed faces (moko), dressed in traditional warrior costume, thrusting long, sharp wooden spears, or tiah, in our direction. A branch of green fern was thrown onto the ground before us and our representative picked it up to show that we came as friends. Declining it would show we were enemies. |
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| Hongi, a more personal form of self introduction |
In the distance, other members of the Maori congregation waited as the menacing, tribal war dancers took us from the entrance onto their sacred land in order to be seated opposite our hosts. Maoris were traditionally fierce warriors and so it is their duty and customary practice to perform this ritual. A beautiful welcoming, wailing sound (powhiri) from the Maori women hung in the air and we proceeded with the welcome speeches offered by the Maori men outside the intricately carved wharenui (meeting place). Formal delivery and warm-hearted welcome wishes, followed by a traditional song was offered to Peace Boat and we reciprocated in the same way. After the formalities had been respected, all 90 Peace Boat representatives were individually greeted by the Maori hosts with a hongi – the act of looking into each others eyes and touching noses. All those present for this welcome ceremony were deeply moved by the passion and cultural integrity involved in maintaining such ancient, ancestral traditions. |
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| Rich scents of lunch rising from the earthen oven |
By following our noses we soon arrived at the sacred site of the hangi – the underground oven where our lunch was carefully being cooked. Potatoes, pumpkin, beef, pork, chicken and cabbage had been wrapped in foil, linen and then placed in the ground under a smouldering fire. As trays of food were carefully dug up, the unique, rich aromas filled the air around the sacred hangi site, where unsavoury acts, animals or smoking are strongly prohibited. The taste lived up to expectations and led onto a relaxing afternoon of cultural exchange and dialogue. |
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| Swinging the Poi |
An outstanding performance of traditional Maori dancing, singing, spear twirling and demonstrating the intricate art of poi was given in honour of Peace Boat’s visit. No Maori cultural event would be complete however without the tongue-rolling, eye-popping, auspicious dance ritual known as the haka originally used as a war dance to scare away the opposition. Each Maori tribe of Aotearoa, of which there are many, have their own haka and compete in the annual national kapahaka competition. While the haka might look comical to non-Maori, it is a war dance and it therefore very offensive to smile or laugh. |
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| Preservation of culture and identity through education |
Rounding off the day’s activities we visited a local Maori school, where all subjects are taught in the Maori language and all Maori customs and practices are respected and followed. The building of the school was funded by the National Trust, which supports about 800 schools across the country. It has been a long struggle for the Maori people to regain control over their language and culture and while there are very few Maori of pure Maori descent, their ancestral heritage is being recognised. The importance of Maori identity is brought out in a number of political, economical and social institutions such as the New Zealand Maori Council and the Maori Education Foundation who are striving to preserve and promote Maoritanga (Maori tradition). For the Maori who have been taken away from their tribal roots, there are urban Maori schools which provide a space where people can meet, learn about their history and allow it to be a source of pride and not a distant truth from a long time ago. The number of Maoris in higher education is still relatively low, however with the increasing number of Maori only schools, lost confidence can be regained and voices can be heard.
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| An impromptu language exchange |
The highly informative and culturally enlightening day managed to create bonds between the local Maori hosts and their Japanese visitors. Peace Boat were able to reciprocate the warm welcome they had received at the Marae, by inviting their new Maori friends to the ship for dinner and a traditional Japanese performance. Some people were fortunate enough to receive a piece of the sacred pounamu (greenstone) as a gift to bring out personal strength and insight and of course to cherish a place where people still live their lives by the tides of the ocean and the moon. |
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